The White Rann, around 80 km north of Bhuj (feel free to translate to miles) is the world's largest salt flat; every few months the tide comes in 60-70 km, covering the desert with salt and turning the ground white. To the north is desert and the Pakistan border, and an area where no one lives. There is nothing as far as the eye can see, and it looks like you are staring out over the ocean. After a trip to some of the northern villages of Kutch, we stopped at the Rann to watch the sun go down. Our timing was off so we didn't see the sun set (we were too early) but I have never seen anything like it. And even though you are miles and miles from the ocean, it smells like you're standing at the beach.

We also saw a mirage in the distance: what looked like the coast with water and boats was actually heat waves and a car far away at the horizon. I had never seen one before, but it's easy to see how people (or characters in every cartoon ever) are tricked into walking miles and never reaching the "water."

We headed home with our feet and faces caked in salt, as if we had just spent a day at the beach.